Paddy
Burt stays at Three Choirs Vineyards in Newent,
Gloucestershire
(Filed: 19/06/2004)
We've been to many places necessitating a long drive
but never before have we driven through rows of vines
stretching into the far yonder. We are at Three Choirs
Vineyard. Magic.
Past the sign that says "Vineyard Tours", we
follow the sign that says "Residents", where
we find a long, single-storey building with marked and
numbered car parking spaces. As there's just one empty
one, there's no doubt where to put our car.
In the main building, we are greeted by Melanie, who
gives us a key. Bertie, the cat, insists on accompanying
us. "You will find a mini bar in a cupboard,"
Melanie tells us. "Bertie knows where it is and
will sit in front of it because he knows there's fresh
milk in there. He also knows there's a bottle of local
beer called Cat's Whiskers." She pauses. "And
if you let him in later, he might also bring you
`freshly caught' presents.'
Well, I like cats and will forgive him if he does.
After a bit of tummy-tickling in our room, he saunters
to the French doors, indicating that it's time he left.
Opening them, we admire our terrace-for-two with vines
growing up each side and cast-iron chairs and a table,
plus a view of newly planted vines undulating into the
distance. Peace, perfect peace.
Later, inspecting this room in more detail, we think
how comfortable it is: new, pale-green fitted carpet,
cream walls, two armchairs... and a standard lamp for
reading after dark.
When it's time for dinner, we saunter across to the
hotel and sink into massive armchairs in a small area
adjoining the restaurant, separated by floor-to-ceiling
wine racks. "I like it here," I remark to my
husband. "So do I," he responds. Then we spot
a notice that says: "Wines by the glass" -
well, I suppose it would, wouldn't it, when we're in a
place specialising in wine. Seeing other people drinking
Pimm's, one of my favourite drinks, we order a couple.
Choosing what to eat in this two-AA rosette restaurant
isn't easy. The menu of the head chef, Darren Leonard,
is both different and interesting. Eventually I opt for
the twice-baked goats' cheese soufflé, with
home-made tomato chutney. "Think I'll have the
pan-fried canon of organic lamb with honey-roasted
parsnip purée and fondant potato to follow,"
I add.
My husband starts with terrine of pork hock, belly and
cheek, lightly pressed with a home-made piccalilli, and
for his main course has roasted fillet of monkfish baked
in Parma ham in a spinach and potato gratin.
"Remind me not to wear these satin trousers again,"
I say as my notebook slides from beneath my jacket. The
great thing is, this is no stiff and starchy restaurant
where dropped notebooks attract attention; it's a
friendly place where, at a guess, anything goes.
The starters are divine. "Belly and cheek sounds
disgusting," I say. "Well, it's wonderful and
the piccalilli is nothing like Pan Yan pickle."
The waitress brings a bottle of red and a bottle of
white wine, from which she pours two generous glassfuls
- a treat, this, with the option of choosing something
different if we want another.
For puds, I can't resist the chef's honey mousse topped
with orange syrup and how intrigued I am when it arrives
wearing a brandy-snap hat. I have persuaded my husband
to try the homemade crumpets with Hereford hop and
tomato chutney. "What do you think?" "It's
certainly an interesting alternative to cheese for
anyone who doesn't have a sweet tooth," he replies.
"Just wish you'd let me have the chocolate truffle,"
he mutters.
Breakfast - looking out over the vineyard, reading The
Daily Telegraph - is also a treat... just a pity that
the toast is so pale and uninteresting.
Essentials
Three Choirs Vineyards, Newent, Gloucestershire (01531
890223, www.three-choirs-vineyards.co.uk), has eight
rooms. Paddy Burt paid £145 for dinner, bed and
breakfast, £6 for pre-dinner drinks and £8 for
two glasses of wine. Total: £159.
Room Service by Paddy Burt (Enigma Publishing) can be
ordered directly from the publisher at a special price
of £9.50 including p & p. Enigma Publishing
(020 8874 8285, fax 020 8874 9325, email Enigma
Publishing), 249/250 Merton Road, London SW18 5EB
Paddy Burt welcomes feedback from both hoteliers and
readers. To send her an email, use the link at the top
of this page.
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